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Quick link to related articles :

• Introduction
• Top Advice and Common Poker Mistakes
• Pre-Flop Poker Play
• Flop Play
• Specific Holdings at Flop Play
• On the Turn
• On the River
• Special Moves
• Poker Odds
• More detailed online poker hand selection and betting

Introduction to No-limit Online Poker Startegy

The purpose of this article is to make your game a winning one . The strategies and
concepts suggested in this text relate to full-ring games (8-10 players).

No-Limit Texas Hold'em is not suitable for beginners, as the game requires and
places a much higher premium on tight/aggressive play. As well, it involves
considerably advanced reading skills that allow you to "play the players" rather than
the cards. If you are interested in trying out No-Limit Texas Hold'em as a beginner,
you should start out with low buy-in, no-limit tournaments. This is because you will
risk a modest amount per playing session and will more or less be forced to learn
to play a tight/aggressive style (as this style is generally preferred in tournament
play).

Differences between Limit and No-Limit Texas Hold'em

The biggest differences between No-Limit Texas Hold'em and Limit Texas Hold'em
involve position and hand value. Position is far more important in No-Limit because
the decisions you make will have a greater impact on your stack. If you trap
someone in No-Limit with the help of position, you can win your opponent's entire
stack as compared to collecting a few extra bets in Limit. Big connectors like AK, AQ
and KQ decrease in value when you play No-Limit as you are more likely to win
small pots and lose big pots with these types of hands. As well, all pairs increase
in value when playing No-Limit since you are able to double through your
opponents when you hit a set. The big pairs, AA and KK, also increase in value
when playing No-Limit as you are again presented with an opportunity to trap
someone for his whole stack.

In No-Limit it is important to keep track of the amount of money you and your
opponents have on the table. The variation in stack size greatly affects how the
game is played. Some examples are as follows:

1. You have $500 and your opponent has $25, the blinds are $2-$4. You are sitting
in the big blind with a JTs and your opponent moves all-in from first position (a
position referred to as sitting under the gun). All other players fold. This is clearly a
situation in which you should fold since you are most certainly the underdog and
risking an additional $21 in order to win his last $25 is not a profitable play. If your
opponent also has $500, then a call may be acceptable as you have a chance of
winning $500 by risking another $21. The decision of whether to call or not depends
on how well your opponent plays after the flop.

2. You have $1000 and your opponent also has $1000, the blinds are $2-$4. You
hold QQ and make it $20 to go. Your opponent, who is acting behind you, now
moves all-in with his entire $1000. You should fold unless you know your opponent
does not have AA or KK. If your opponent made the same play with only $60 in front
of him, you should call his all-in bet in the hopes that he does not hold AA or KK.

Key skills to becoming a good No-Limit Texas Hold'em player

• Strict hand selection (patience/discipline)
• Good table selection (very important in all poker games)
• Discipline (the ability to wait for a good hand and not chase)
  
• Reading opponents
  
• Courage to bet/raise/call down (aggressive with draws or perceived  best
  hands)
  
• Not vulnerable to go on tilt

No-limit Texas Hold'em Top Advice

1. Be very selective of the starting hands you play: in a standard $2-$4 NL
   game you should have a 20-30% view of the flop percentage. This means
   folding AJ in first position, KT in middle position and QT in late position.
2. Table selection: only play in games where you have an edge. You want at
   least a couple of weak players at the table when you sit down.
3. "Playing the players": make sure to quickly assess the opposition: who
   plays inferior hands, who folds at aggression, who bets with draws, who
   calls big bets with weak hands and draws, who can be bluffed, who bluffs,
   etc.
4. "Pump it or dump it": fold or bet/raise (if the odds are with you). You should
   avoid calling unless you have a good reason (like trapping an opponent).
5. Respect most big bets and raises: this is particularly true on the turn and
   river as most players do not bluff.

No-Limit Texas Hold'em Common Mistakes

1. Not releasing a decent hand when beat, thus losing the whole stack on one
   hand.
2. Calling with weak holdings when facing a bet.
3. Playing too many starting hands.
4. Not raising pre-flop with premium hands (putting pressure on limpers
   holding drawing hands) and then going too far with them after the flop.
5. Over/under betting the pot (risking a lot to win small/not protecting hand).
   

Hand ranking for No-Limit Texas Hold'em

The best starting hands for a beginner in NL are:

1. The pairs AA-22.
2. The big suited connectors AKs & AQs.
3. The big connectors AK & AQ.

Online Poker Starting Hand Requirements

These requirements work very well in a tight/aggressive style of play. For less
experienced players this is a great way to start out.

Avoid playing marginal hands, as you will have to do a lot of guessing which will
leave you vulnerable. If you have never played NL before, it is recommended that
you restrict yourself to only playing pairs AA-22, AK and AQ. With these hands, you
will not find yourself caught in many difficult situations and you can still win big pots.
Playing only these hands requires a great deal of discipline since you will not be
involved in many pots. Playing with this strategy will provide you with a lot of time to
study the game and observe the players as you play.

This table shows minimum required hands per position in a semi-tight/semi-
aggressive game.

More detailed online poker hand selection and betting..

How to modify the table depending on the action before you:

If there are a couple of limpers in front of you, you should only raise with the top
hands, such as AK and AA-JJ, and be more inclined to call with the marginal hands
since these hands play well in multi-way pots.

If the pot has been raised, consider who raised and decide whether to call, re-raise
or fold. If it was a strong player, re-raise/fold. If it was a weak player, your inclination
should be to call, as you will be presented with a good chance of winning a big pot
when you hit a great flop. Re-raise the strong players with AK and AA-JJ in an
attempt to shut them out and win the pot immediately, otherwise fold. Be more
inclined to just call raises from weaker players with all pairs, AK and AQ, but only if
you have position and will likely end up heads-up, otherwise re-raise. You do this in
order to trap them on the flop when you hit a great hand instead of shutting them out
pre-flop.

Limp or Raise:

Raise with AA-QQ, AK and AQs in any position.

Basically, all other starting hands are limping hands. And though you might re-raise
with them when you are defending your blinds, you might also raise with these
hands when you are first in from a late position.

Occasionally mix up your play by raising/calling/re-raising with hands you would not
usually play. It is preferable to avoid becoming too predictable.

General Online Poker Pre-Flop Advice

• Most of the time you should raise/re-raise with top-pairs (AA-QQ) and top
  connectors (AK, AQs) in order to make low-pairs and various connectors
  pay to see flops against you. Remember, they will often have the opportunity
  to double up on you if they hit (although many beginners do not realize this
  and fold too often pre-flop).
• Stick to the premium hands (see table of minimum required hands). You
  will pay dearly to "chase" with second-best hands in NL.
• Keep most raises down to between 70% and 100% (making it 3 times the
  big blind to go typically equals an 80% pot bet) in order to save money when
  you get re-raised or called by stronger holdings. If there are limpers in front
  of you, raise to about 4-6 times the big blind.
• Have respect for strong tight players (for example, you should drop AQ if a
  strong player raises under the gun).
• When very weak players have entered the pot, be inclined to call and take
  flops with them.

Flop play is very important in No-Limit Texas Hold'em. The key is to determine the
relative strength of your holding. Over time, it is crucial that you develop the ability to
release good hands when you suspect them to be second best. You must
determine your relative strength and release hands that face a serious risk of being
second-best. Betting is the natural move if you want to protect a good hand from
being outdrawn or when you are presented with the opportunity to make your
opponents fold their hands. You should usually "pump it or dump it" on the flop.

It is extremely important that you always evaluate the relative strength of your hand
on the flop.

In order to decide the correct action it is very important to keep several factors in
mind:

1. What did you flop and what is your relative strength (straight draws, flush
   draws, set, paired board, etc)?
2. Who, if anyone, raised before the flop (often expect another bet)? What kind
   of player is it?
3. What position do you have relative to the raiser's?
4. Number of players (it is hard to bluff facing 3 or more opponents and there
   is a greater chance of someone hitting a strong hand)?
5. Your and your opponents' stack size

When facing a bet you should fold unless you have good reason to doubt the
strength of your opponent. As they are "setting the odds", it is crucial that you make
the appropriate decision. Remember, your opponent can be holding anything from
the stone cold nuts down to nothing - if your hand is decent it may very well be an
underdog to a lot of likely holdings.

Of course, you will not always fold. In fact, every now and again you should play back
with a raise when you have a good chance of taking the lead or if you think your
opponent is weak. Consequently, you will be "setting the odds" and forcing your
opponent to make a decision (and a possible mistake).

Try to save your calls unless you have very good reason not to (like slow-playing a
monster or drawing to the nuts in a multi-way pot). You will rarely get the odds for
chasing "outs" by calling in NL, unless your opponents bet too small or give free
cards. By calling with mediocre holdings you will set yourself up for a "guessing
game", in which it is necessary to read opponents well and "make moves" in order
to be successful.

Typical Situations on the Flop

Here are four typical situations on the flop:

Very Strong Hand (top two-pair, set)

• Often slow-play on an uncoordinated board to lure opponents in, to induce
  bluffs or let them make second-best hands.
• However, if the board is coordinated and several players are in, you will
  need to over-bet the pot in order to make them pay for attempting to outdraw
  you. The bigger the bet they call, the greater their mistake. And that is how
  you make money in poker: letting other players pay to chase you.

Strong Hand (over-pair, top-pair with A kicker, etc.)

• Generally, bet about the size of the pot in order to protect it (for example,
  pushing out overcards and making draws pay).
• However, you might have to release this type of hand when facing an over-
  bet or a raise. In such cases, someone could hold a bigger overpair, a set
  or connectors that hit the flop for a two-pair. Usually you should not back top-
  pair with your whole stack!
• If you bet and are called in several spots you have to decide whether your
  hand is the best or not, as it is unlikely that all of your opponents are
  drawing.

Medium Hand (top-pair with a weak kicker, middle-pair with A kicker, second
pocket- pair, etc.)

• Most of the time, you should avoid betting this hand when you are in early
  position, facing several opponents or facing tricky players who slow-play a
  lot. You want to get a free card to hit one of your pocket cards on the turn or
  maybe call/raise an opponent who bets from last position.
• However, if you are in late position and it is checked to you then you should
  bet.
• If you are facing a bet (or get raised) you should fold. You have no initiative
  and are probably chasing 2-5 outs.

Drawing Hands (nut flush or nut straight)

• If you have 11 outs or more and are drawing to the nut flush or straight,
  which requires at least one over-card (higher than any board card), you can
  mix up you game by betting/check-raising/raising in order to win the pot
  immediately or draw out on later rounds.
• If you are playing with "calling stations" this strategy has much lower equity
  as you will not be able to win a lot of pots with semi-bluffs. With this type of
  hand, one option is to check-raise/raise all-in if you have a short stack and
  the pot is fairly large. Then you have two ways to win, either by forcing your
  opponents to fold or by outdrawing them. You have between a 33-53%
  chance of doing so if the outs are between 8 and 14.
• Sometimes it is correct to call a bet on the flop because of the existing
  implicit odds. This play is directed by the size of your and your opponent's
  stacks and also by the size of the bet. If a weak player with a lot of money
  bets and you too have a large sum of money, a call would be good since
  you might double-up if you hit on the turn.

Non-vulnerable "monsters" (four of a kind, nut full house, nut flush, nut straight)

• With this type of flop your main concern is how to play in order to get the
  maximum pay-off.
• Build the pot if no one is taking initiative (often with small bets/raises to give
  pot odds). When betting 30-50% of the pot in multi-way pots, a lot of players
  will call/raise with draws and other weaker holdings.
• If you need to be active to build the pot, be sure to leave ample room for
  opponents to make a move/bluff.

Vulnerable "monsters" (low full house, non-nut flush, non-nut straight)

• This hand can be played profitably either by slow-playing until the turn (if the
  turn card still leaves you with a great hand) or by "jamming it" on the flop.
• If you decide to jam it on the flop be prepared to back the hand with your
  whole stack.
• Sometimes a better strategy is to wait until the turn card and see if a blank
  hits. If so, you reveal the true strength of your hand on the turn. A
  disadvantage with this play is that you allow people to outdraw you on the
  turn by hitting a bigger flush, straight or full house. Also, the action dries up
  quickly when a fourth suited card hits or it is only one card to a straight on
  the turn. Therefore, it is important not to get "married to the hand" in case a
  bad card hits on the turn.

Top/Middle/Low Set (trips using pocket-pair)

• If the board is highly coordinated (2/3 cards in same suit and/or 2/3
  connected cards), you have to make a stand and try to shut people out
  immediately, as almost any card on the turn will be a scare card. Several
  players may be chasing, so over-betting the pot at 200-300% is not wrong. If
  someone has already flopped a straight or flush you still have an
  approximate 34% chance of improving to at least a full house.
• If the board is uncoordinated you can set up a slow-play by calling or betting
  modestly and attempting to lure people in. Betting modestly works best if
  some cards are in the "playing zone" (for example, 9 and up) as someone
  usually has a decent holding.
  
• Remember, with a "monster" hand you want to leave room for players to try
  to bluff you as long as you are not in great jeopardy of being outdrawn.
  Always consider which types of opponents remain in the pot.

Top two-pair or top and bottom-pair (pairing both hole cards)

• Play is quite similar to playing flopped sets
• Slow-play this hand often with a modest bet or call (you might get well paid
  off on later betting rounds).
• If the board is highly coordinated (2/3 cards in same suit and/or 2/3
  connected cards), you usually want to punish the drawing hands. Over-
  betting the pot is not wrong if there are several opponents
• If you have hit with a "weak" Ace, let AK and AQ pay to chase.

Bottom two-pair

• You need to protect this pot by betting and raising. This hand looks strong
  but is in the vulnerable position of being outdrawn. Generally, you hit this
  type of hand with connected cards, which always make at least a straight-
  draw possible. For example, if you hold 98s and the flop is K-9-8, any K, Q,
  J, T, 7, 5 that hits on the turn will be a scare card and, if you add a flush-
  draw, it becomes even worse.
• Watch out if the board pairs on the turn (and you do not make a full house)
  as someone holding an over-pair has made a better two-pair than yours or
  it could give someone trips.

Overpair (pocket-pair above highest card on the flop)

• To extract more money in an aggressive game, often look to slow-play high
  over-pairs (AA-KK) by limping, calling or making modest bets in the hopes
  of re-raising someone before the flop. With the big pairs, you want to avoid
  taking flops with more than one or two opponents.
• If the board is uncoordinated and you are up against one or two opponents,
  consider slow-playing your over-pair.
• If you have a medium overpair the situation is quite different. You want to win
  the pot on the flop, as your hand is vulnerable to overcards hitting on the
  turn.
• Watch out for flops like 9-8-7, T-9-8 and J-10-9, especially if they come with
  flush draws. Anyone who gives you a lot of action on this kind of flop is likely
  to either have you beat or is about even-money to outdraw you.

Top-pair, Ace Kicker

• Most of the time bet on the flop (and continue on turn) as you often have
  weaker players staying in with weaker kickers or worse hands. Make sure to
  bet about the same amount as the pot if the board is coordinated in order to
  protect your hand.
• Again, there is a huge difference between a flop like K-7-3 rainbow and K-J-
  9 with a flush draw when you hold AK. In the first case you should consider
  slow-playing the hand and, in the second case, you have to give action on
  the flop as almost any card on the turn will be a scare card.
• For instance, you hold AT and the flop is T-7-2. You want win the pot on the
  flop or force hands like 89, T9, JT, QT and KT pay to chase you. In addition,
  any 6, J, Q or K on the turn will be a scare card.

Top-pair, Weak Kicker

• In an un-raised pot, make a normal bet to take the pot if your hand is the
  best. If there are four players or more involved in the pot, consider giving it
  up without a fight.
• Generally, you should fold when facing a pot-sized bet from a tight player if
  there is a decent chance that you are out-kicked or (sometimes) facing an
  over-pair. Be extra cautious to call if there are many players left to act, as you
  cannot afford to take any heat.
• Avoid getting heavily involved with this type of hand unless you have a lot of
  additional value, like a straight draw and a flush draw. For instance, you are
  holding 89s and the flop is 6-7-8 with two cards of your suit. Although you
  only have top-pair with a weak kicker, be prepared to back your hand with
  your entire stack. This hand gives you 20 outs (!) to outdraw someone
  holding AA, thus making you the favorite to win.

Second-pair (pocket-pair between the flop's high and middle card)

• Typical fold or bet hand.
• If you have late/last position with no more than two opponents that checked
  the flop, you should bet an un-raised pot. Weak/loose players who chase
  could chase on middle-pairs or draws. Tight players might fold weak top-
  pairs or other non-made hands.
• Fold if a strong player bets in front of you, especially if players behind you
  are left to act.
• When betting, in most cases you should release your hand if you get raised.
  The only exception is when you strongly suspect that a weak/aggressive
  player is drawing. You should then re-raise or call and wait to see what
  unfolds on the turn.

Middle-pair, Ace Kicker

• Bet out or check-fold, depending on the board, players and number of
  opponents.
• If you are last to act and it is checked to you, consider betting.
• This situation arises quite frequently when you are playing the Axs hands. It
  is important not getting heavily involved on this type of flop.
• With the Axs hands you want to hit two-pair, trips, a pair and the nut flush
  draw, etc. Then you can trap weaker flushes, AK (when you hold two-pair)
  and trips with a weaker kicker than the Ace.

Middle-pair, Weak Kicker

• When there are only two or three players in the pot either check-fold or make
  a position bet when checked to you.
• Sometimes take a free card when it is checked to you in the hopes that you
  hit at least two-pair.
• Fold if an opponent bets.

Third-pair (pocket-pair below the flop's second card)

• Either check-fold or make a position bet when checked to you and there are
  only two or three players in the pot.
• Sometimes take a free card when checked to you in the hopes that you hit at
  least two-pair.
• Fold if an opponent bets.

Low-pair, Ace Kicker

• Fold to any action. You might be chasing two outs (for trips) as the Ace can
  make an opponent a higher two-pair. Either way, you only have 5 outs at
  best.
• If you decide to bet, it should be solely on "bluff merits" (few players,
  position, no face cards on the flop, etc.).

Low-pair with Low Kicker

• Fold to any action.
• Do not position bet.
• Bet or check when checked to you in last position depending on the
  circumstances.

Nut draws with 9 outs or more (ace flush draw, two over-cards and a straight
draw, straight flush draw)

• Instead of calling, always consider putting pressure on your opponent by
  betting, raising or check-raising. An aggressive move is preferred against
  only one or two opponents who can fold decent hands. With 12 outs (such
  as a flush draw with an Ace kicker, giving you 9 nut outs and 3 top-pair outs),
  you will have an almost 50% chance to hit on turn and river combined. By
  putting an opponent all-in on the flop, you will often make money as you are
  almost even-money if called and you have a good chance of winning the pot
  on the flop. But remember to set your opponent all-in and do not call all-in.
• Late position gives extra advantage with this type of hand, as you can decide
  whether to re-raise, bet, check, call or fold depending on the action in front of
  you.
• If you are short-stacked and the pot is decent sized consider moving all-in,
  even if you are the first to act.
• Note: to call a 75% pot bet heads-up, pot odds of over 30% (14-15 outs) are
  required. Even counting "implicit pot odds" with potential extra winnings on
  the river, you still do not like a heads-up bet of more than 80%.
• Remember to draw for the nuts. Be certain not to "draw dead" against the
  nuts.

Non-nut draw with 9 outs or more

• Be prepared to fold your non-nut draw, particularly in raised multi-way pots.
  You do not want to chase and end up loosing your entire stack if you hit.
• For the most part you should avoid betting or chasing on a second or third-
  best draw, especially on flush draws where you may frequently find yourself
  up against a suited Ace.
• With a second-best draw you can make a decent bet in an un-raised pot by
  trying to win it right away.

Non-nut draws with 8 outs or less

• Do not chase as you have low pot odds and might be "drawing dead". You
  want to see the turn as cheaply as possible and find out if you make your
  hand.
• Raise, bet or fold depending on the board, players, actions and number of
  opponents. Do not call off your money.

Overcards - AK, AQ, KQs, AJs

• These hands should be played with caution against both strong and weak
  opposition. Strong players know that you, as a tight player, will often be
  holding overcards when the flop comes with low cards. This makes you
  susceptible to steal raises from the good players and the weak players will
  call/chase down with mediocre holdings.
• If the board comes with no face cards (Ace, King, Q ueen or Jack), you can
  bet about 70-80% of the pot as a bluff/semi-bluff, representing an over-pair.
  In particular, you should follow through as the pre-flop raiser against no
  more than two opponents.
• Avoid making it a (expensive!) habit to bet this hand against
  suited/connected flops with no face cards and several opponents. You will
  loose money and "bluff equity", to be used when better served.
• Remember that your overcards might still be the best hand against one or
  two opponents with a flop of rags.

• As a general rule you still want to have the lead and build the pot.
• If you were betting a draw on the flop, you must use your best judgment and
  decide whether to fire again. Remember to always re-evaluate your hand as
  the play progresses.
• Do not call down big bets with a medium holding, unless you play with a
  habitual bluffer or a player who is quite obviously on tilt.
• You can make a steal-raise/steal-bet against tight players if you smell a
  semi-bluff and you have some kind of draw, but you have to wait for the
  moment when you have a good read on your opponent. For example, you
  hold KQs and the flop came 10-9-3. You called a small bet from a lone
  opponent and now a 6 hits, which also gives you a flush draw. If you sense
  weakness in your opponent, who bets again, it is appropriate to raise as a
  semi-bluff. You are likely to have at least 12 outs (any J or flush card) to a
  better hand than your opponent and possibly as many as 18 outs (if a K or Q
  will win the pot for you).

• Avoid betting unless you are quite sure to win a showdown, especially when
  facing tough opponents. You have little to win and a lot to loose (as you 90%
  of the time will only get calls from players who believe they have your made
  hand beat)
• Try to figure out your opponent/s most likely holding/s and bet the amount
  you suspect they might call.
• Sometimes check a good hand in order to induce a bluff from someone
  who you think missed a draw, since they will not call your bet anyways.
• Often you should bet small when having the best hand (and no scare card
  hits on the river). This amount will entice players to call with a weaker hand.
• When you have hit your (nut) draw, often bet 80-120% of the pot to make it
  clear that either you made the draw or you are bluffing. This kind of bet
  generates almost as many calls as a small bet.

The Free Card

When you are in late position or last to act, you can raise with a drawing hand on the
flop. This will likely make your opponents check to you on the turn, thus giving you
the opportunity to check (if your hand does not improve) or bet (if you hit your draw).
This will save you money if you do not improve and will reward you with profit if you
hit. However, this move will backfire when you are re-raised on the flop. In these
situations, it will cost you money but it remains a good play since you obtained
information and have a good draw to a better hand.

The Check-Raise

When you posses a good hand and it is you turn to act, check in the hopes that an
opponent will bet so that you can raise when your turn comes again. For example,
you are in early position and have #Ah-#Qs. The flop is As-#Qh-#6c. You check and
two players in middle position also check. A player in late position bets and you
then raise. The reason for check-raising is to create a situation in which you can
potentially hit a better hand, like a straight, but where it is too expensive for your
opponents to call since, in this case, they do not have the correct pot odds with
hands like gut-shot straight draws. If they still call, at least you have obtained
information regarding the strength of their hands and forced them to pay as much
as possible for trying to outdraw you.

The Semi-bluff

Semi-bluffing is when you bet or raise with a hand that is not likely to be the best (at
the moment) but you have many outs to outdraw your opponents if you get called or
raised, although you are actually hoping to win the pot right there. For example, you
are in late position holding #Jh-#Th and the flop shows #Ks-#6h-#2h, thus giving
you a flush draw with 9 outs. There are three other players in the pot and they all
check to you. You bet without having the best hand but since they all checked, they
indicated weakness and might fold pocket-pairs, a pair of 6's or 2's. Even if you do
get called, you have 9 outs to the flush and maybe an additional 6 outs to win if you
hit a J or a T, 15 outs in total. If called and it is checked to you on the turn, you have
the option of taking a free card in case your hand did not improve.

Online POker Pot Odds

Pot odds are what you use to calculate whether a certain play has a positive
expected value. It is defined as the relationship between the size of the pot and the
bet. For instance, if the pot is $100 and you bet $10, the pot odds are 10 to 1. In
order to calculate your pot odds, you must know how many outs your hand has at
that moment. For example, if you flop a heart flush draw you then have 9 outs to
make your hand. There are 13 hearts in total. You hold 2 and the flop came with 2,
which leaves 9 hearts unseen.

If you refer to the table below, you will notice that you have a 35% chance of hitting a
hand with 9 outs on the turn and river combined. This is slightly better than 1 in 3
times, which means that if it costs you $10 to win $30 or more, drawing for a flush is
the correct move.

A rule of thumb: every out gives you about a 4% chance of hitting on the turn and
river combined. For example, 5 outs gives you about a 20% chance of improving, 6
outs about 24%, etc.

1 person called in front of you :

AA, KK, QQ = Raise(R) 90% of time / Call(C) 10% of time (Raise=3x to 5x times the
BigBlind(BB))
JJ,TT = Raise 90% / Call10% (Raise = 4x to 5x BigBlind)
99 = Raise50% of the time / Call50% of the time
55-22 = Call on Button
88-66 = Call
AKsuited , AKoff suit = Raise
AJs , AJo = Call
ATs = Call,    ATo = Fold (F)
A9 - A2=Fold
KQs = Call , KQo = Fold
KJs = Call if bettor is weak, otherwise fold KJ
Suited Connectors (not mentioned above)=3 or more callers in front call, less than
3 = Fold

3 Calls or more in front of you (you’re on button) :

AA, KK, QQ, JJ,TT = Raise 4x to 5x times the BigBlind
99-22 = Call and hope to flop set
AKso = Raise
AQs = Raise , AQo =Call
AJso - ATso = Call
Axs = Call  Axo = Fold
Suited Connectors=Call
Unsuited Connectors down to 5,4 = Call,  4,3 & 3,2 = Fold
KJso = Call
KT etc. = Fold

Nobody shows strength in front of you :

AA, KK, QQ = Raise 80 % of time by 3x-4x times BigBlind from early and                          middle table position & 2x times BigBlind from late. Limp(L)                          20% of time.

JJ, TT, 99= Early: 70%Raise & 30%Limp (R=4x-5x times the BigBlind)
                     Mid.: 100%aiseR (R=3x-5x BigBlind)
                     Late: 75%Raise & 25%Limp (R=3x-5x BigBlind)

88, 77, 66 = Early: 20%Raise & 80%Limp
                      Mid.: 88 = Raise, 77 & 66 = Limp
                      Late: 75%Raise & 25%Limp

55 ,44 ,33 ,22 = Early: Fold
                             Mid.: 55 & 44=Limp , 33 & 22=Fold
                             Late: 55 & 44=Raise, 33 & 22=Limp(weak blinds=Raise)

AKso , AQso = Early: 75%R & 25%Limp (R=3x-5x times the BigBlind)
                                       (caution if you get action and flop doesn’t hit you)
                            Mid.: 85%Raise & 15%Limp
                            Late: 85%Raise & 15%Limp

AJs , ATs = Early: 50%Raise & 50%Limp
                      Mid.: 75%Raise & 25%Limp
                      Late: Strong Raise

A9s , A8s = Early: 50%Raise & 50%Limp
                                  (weak table & little preflop action, if not fold)
                      Mid.: 50%Raise & 50%Limp
                      Late: 80%Raise & 20%Limp

A9o,A8o= Early: Fold
                   Mid.: Fold
                   Late: 90%Raise & 10%Limp

A7 & lower= On the Button: Raise
                       1 before the Button: A7 & A6 = Raise, A5,4,3=F
                        Late: A7s=50%R & 50%L, the rest only blind stealing or F

KQso, KJso, QJso= Early: KQs=50%R & 50%L, KQo=50%R & 50%F                             (weak table & little preflop action, if not fold) KJso,QJso=F
                                     Mid.: 50%R & 50%F
                                     Late: steal blinds only, else fold

Suited Connectors= Under Gun(UG) & UG+1=15%R / 85%F
                                      Early: JTs = Limp, F the rest
                                      Mid.: JTs=50%R & 50%L,T9s=15%R & 85%L, F rest
                                      Late: JTs , T9s=R, 89s , 78s=L, F the rest

You’re Small Blind attacking Big Blind :

50%Raise & 50%Limp (Raise=5x timesb BB) with:
1. any pair
2. Ax, Kx, Qx down to Q5
3. JTs & J9s

1 Raise of 3x BB or greater(not allins) in front of you :

AA , KK = 85% Re-Raise / 15%Call
QQ = 70%Re-Raise / 30%Call
JJ , TT = 20%ReRaise / 80%Call
99, 88 ,77 = Call
66 -22 = Fold
AKso = Call
AQs = Call
Fold everything else

Raise and Reraise In Front of You :

AA =RRR
KK = RRR (with caution)
QQ = C
Fold everything else

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